How to Get Rid of Florida Carpenter Ants

Carpenter ants in house

If you’re here, chances are you’ve spotted one or two large black ants and thought: Is this serious? Should I be worried? Maybe you’ve already tried sprays or store-bought bait, standing in your kitchen, feeling overwhelmed, muttering,

“I’ve tried everything.”

I’ll give you clear, actionable steps (backed by years of experience) so you can take control today. You’ll learn how to correctly identify Florida carpenter ants, spot early warning signs of structural damage, choose effective treatments (DIY or professional), and prevent future infestations.

Are You Sure It’s Carpenter Ants? (How to Identify Them)

Before you invest time, money, or energy into treatment, let’s make absolutely sure you’re dealing with carpenter ants and not termites or another species. Misidentification is one of the top reasons treatments fail, and it's more frequent than you might think.

Physical Traits: Large Black Ants with Bent Antennae and Narrow Waists

Carpenter ants are among the largest ants in Florida, often measuring between ¼ to ½ inch long. They typically appear black or dark reddish-black. What sets them apart?

Photo Source -> UGA Extension Forsyth County

  • Bent (elbowed) antennae

  • Slim, pinched waist

  • Smooth, rounded thorax (the middle section of the body)

  • Six legs and a slightly fuzzy body if viewed up close

These ants may look intimidating, and they should. Their size, combined with their wood-damaging behavior, makes them one of the more destructive pests we found in Florida

Key Differences from Termites and Other Ant Species

Many homeowners mistake carpenter ants for termites, especially when they see winged swarmers. But there are clear differences:

Photo Source -> Iowa State University

  • Carpenter ants have elbowed antennae; termites have straight ones.

  • Ants have a pinched waist; termites have a thick, uniform body.

  • Ant wings are uneven (front larger than rear); termite wings are the same size.
     

Termites eat wood. Carpenter ants don’t eat it, they tunnel through it to build nests, which can still lead to extensive structural damage over time.

Carpenter Ants vs. Termites Comparison Table

Feature

Carpenter Ants

Termites

Color

Black or reddish

Creamy white to light brown

Antennae

Elbowed

Straight

Waist

Narrow and pinched

Broad, uniform

Wings

Uneven (front larger)

Equal length

Diet

Do not eat wood

Eat wood

Frass

Present (sawdust-like)

Usually absent

Time Active

Mostly at night

Day or night, depending on species

Swarmers Inside = A Mature Colony Indoors

If you're seeing winged ants indoors, especially near windows or lights, it’s a red flag. Swarmers mean the colony is mature and possibly expanding and that usually means there’s already a nest inside your home.

We often hear the question,

“Should I be concerned if I only see one or two?”

The answer is yes, especially if those ants are larger and appear at night. Carpenter ants forage under the cover of darkness, which is why...

🔦 Flashlight Tip: Try watching for activity at night around your kitchen, bathroom, or exterior foundation. You may discover trails you never noticed during the day.

Can They Build Nests Inside Furniture or Behind Cabinets?

Yes, absolutely. One of the more surprising things for homeowners is discovering that carpenter ants have hollowed out furniture, cabinet backs, or even inside doors. I’ve seen homes where the nest was hidden inside a hollow-core interior door. A warm, undisturbed location with just enough moisture to support a satellite colony.

✅ Quick Visual ID Checklist

  • Large black or dark red ant (¼ to ½ inch)

  • Bent (elbowed) antennae

  • Pinched waist

  • Smooth, rounded thorax

  • Active at night (nocturnal)

  • May be seen trailing along baseboards, pipes, trees, or counters

  • Presence of frass (wood shavings)

  • Swarmers indoors = mature infestation

Signs They’re Causing Damage to Your Home

Unlike termites, carpenter ants don’t eat wood. Instead, they excavate it to carve out smooth tunnels and galleries for their nests. This process produces frass, fine sawdust-like shavings often mixed with insect body parts and debris. You’ll usually find this material piled below baseboards, windowsills, cabinet backs, or near furniture.

Another subtle clue?

Faint rustling sounds in the walls. When the house is quiet, especially at night, you may hear what sounds like crinkling paper or sand shifting. If you tap on trim or beams and it sounds unusually hollow or papery, that’s your signal: they’re inside.

Why Are They in Your House?

Carpenter ants gravitate toward moisture and stillness, making bathrooms, kitchens, attics, and crawl spaces prime targets. While the parent colony is often located outdoors (in a tree stump, mulch bed, or rotting log), it’s the satellite nests indoors that do the most damage unnoticed.

I’ve read somewhere that homeowners got on a routine professional treatment plan and they still keep coming back.

That’s not uncommon. When ants return after treatment, it usually means one of two things:

  1. The colony wasn’t fully eradicated, especially satellite nests tucked deep in hard-to-reach areas.
    Moisture problems were never addressed, allowing the environment to stay ideal for reinfestation.

No pesticide or bait will be fully effective if there are ongoing leaks, excess humidity, or rotting wood.

Knowing these signs (and acting on them quickly) can make the difference between a minor nuisance and a major repair bill. If you’re hearing noises in the walls, noticing frass, or spotting the ants themselves, it’s time to take action.

How to Prevent a Carpenter Ant Infestation in Florida

The best way to handle a carpenter ant problem? Prevent it before it starts. In Florida’s warm, humid climate, carpenter ants are active nearly year-round but especially in spring and summer, when colonies grow and new nests are established.

Routine Inspections Especially in Spring and Summer

Seasonal inspections are your first line of defense. We recommend setting a calendar reminder to:

  • Check for frass (wood shavings) around baseboards and windows

  • Look for winged ants (swarmers) near lights, especially indoors

  • Examine outdoor wood; fence posts, decks, sheds, for signs of tunneling

  • Monitor bait stations or ant trails if you've had problems in the past

Spring and summer are prime times for carpenter ants to expand or establish new satellite colonies. A quick walkthrough can save you major headaches down the road.

Keep Yard Debris and Moisture Away from the House

Ants love clutter and moisture. Keep your property clean and dry to eliminate their hiding places.

  • Clear leaves, branches, and yard debris away from the home’s foundation

  • Store firewood elevated and several feet from your siding

  • Avoid overwatering plants near your foundation, and use gravel barriers where possible
    Make sure mulch isn't piled up against stucco, siding, or crawlspace vents

Damp, shaded, or soft soil areas are often overlooked but act as launchpads for nesting and foraging. If you take away the habitat, you take away the risk.

Inspect Crawl Spaces, Attic Corners, and Behind Appliances

It’s not just what’s outside, it’s what’s hidden inside. Carpenter ants prefer dark, quiet, undisturbed areas. We often find colonies in:

  • Crawl spaces with limited airflow

  • Attic corners or insulation near vents and gables

  • Under dishwashers, refrigerators, or laundry machines

  • Inside wall voids near plumbing lines or water heaters

Add these to your spring cleaning checklist, and you’ll be ahead of 90% of Florida homeowners.

Step-by-Step DIY Guide to Getting Rid of Florida Carpenter Ants

If you’re the kind of person who likes to tackle problems head-on, and you’ve caught the infestation early, there are several effective do-it-yourself strategies you can implement today. The key is to be thorough, patient, and strategic.

  1. Eliminate Food Sources

Carpenter ants aren’t random wanderers. They’re foraging for food, especially sweets and proteins. Removing access to those items will make your home far less attractive.

  • Wipe down countertops and pantry shelves

  • Rinse recyclables and keep food in airtight containers

  • Sweep up crumbs and clean under appliances

  • Store pet food in sealed containers, and don’t leave it out overnight

Don’t forget the outdoors, either. Aphids and other garden pests produce honeydew, a sugary secretion carpenter ants love. Controlling these insects will reduce the buffet that keeps ants nearby.

Helpful Resource -> What To Carpenter Ants Eat?

  1. Seal Entry Points

Even the best pest control fails if ants can just stroll back in. Start sealing off their access points:

  • Use caulk or weather stripping around windows, doors, and vents
    Inspect plumbing lines and utility connections. use sealant or mesh where needed

  • Replace damaged screens and fix gaps in soffits or fascia boards

And don’t overlook what’s above eye level. Trim back trees and shrubs that touch your house. Ants frequently use these as bridges to your roofline, siding, and attic vents.

  1. Choose the Right Bait

Here’s where knowledge becomes power. Carpenter ants are opportunistic feeders, but their cravings change depending on the season and colony needs.

  • In spring, they typically prefer sugar-based baits
    In summer, they often switch to protein-based options

That’s why rotating baits is often necessary. If you’re not seeing interest in one product after 48 hours, try another.

❗ Note: Never spray insecticide near your bait stations. Sprays repel ants and can cause them to avoid the bait entirely, which defeats the purpose. Baits need to be undisturbed and placed along trails, near frass, or in areas where you’ve seen ant activity.

  1. Use Natural Remedies (If Preferred)

If you prefer a more natural or pet-safe approach, several non-toxic options can help deter ants, though these work best in combination with other methods.

  • Diatomaceous earth (food grade): Apply in dry, thin layers along baseboards and under sinks; it dehydrates and kills on contact.

  • Essential oil sprays: Mix peppermint or tea tree oil with water and spray around entry points.

  • Dish soap and water: Kills on contact when sprayed directly on ants.

Just remember: Natural remedies deter, but rarely eliminate a colony. Use them to supplement your primary treatment, not replace it.

  1. Address Moisture Issues

Even the best bait or spray can’t succeed if the environment keeps drawing ants back. That’s why moisture control is mission-critical.

  • Fix roof and pipe leaks

  • Run dehumidifiers in damp areas

  • Add ventilation to attics, crawl spaces, or utility closets

  • Ensure gutters drain away from your home

When to Call a Professional Ant Control

If you’ve exhausted home remedies, sealed every crack, swapped baits, and still see activity, it doesn’t mean you’ve failed. It means the problem has likely outgrown the tools available at retail level. Often, the problem is more extensive or hidden than expected, but once located, it can be resolved quickly and cleanly with the right strategy.

If you ever need a second set of eyes, we’ve got your back.

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