Here in Florida, where the warm, humid climate is a paradise for pests, ant hills can quickly take over yards, driveways, and even patios. If left untreated, these colonies don’t just become an eyesore, they can damage your lawn, weaken soil structures, and in the case of fire ants, pose a painful and dangerous risk to you and your family.
Whether you're facing aggressive fire ants, persistent big-headed ants, or destructive harvester ants, the wrong approach can make the problem worse by causing colonies to relocate instead of die off.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about identifying, treating, and preventing ant hills from returning.
How to Identify the Ant Species in Your Yard (And Why It Matters!)
Not all ants are the same, and different species require different treatment strategies. Using the wrong method can scatter the colony, making the problem worse. Some ants, like fire ants, require aggressive eradication, while others, like Argentine ants, may simply need habitat disruption to prevent them from taking over your yard.
Below, we’ll cover the most famous ant species found in Florida and how to tell which ones are responsible for those growing mounds in your lawn.
Meet the Mound Builders: Ant Species That Shape Florida’s Landscape
Fire Ants
Photo Source-> NC State University
🔥 Aggressive, painful stings, reddish color, large dome-shaped mounds
These reddish-brown pests build large, loose, dome-shaped mounds, usually in open, sunny areas. Fire ants are highly aggressive, and when disturbed, they swarm out of the mound within seconds, biting and stinging anything in their path. Their venom is painful, causing burning welts that can develop into blisters. Fire ant colonies can grow quickly and become a serious hazard for children, pets, and anyone who spends time in the yard.
👉 Best treatment: Baits like Advion, Amdro, or Orthene, which target the queen and prevent colony relocation.
Big-Headed Ants
Photo Source -> University of Florida
🧠 Brown to reddish, large heads, soil-nesting, less aggressive
Big-headed ants are less aggressive than fire ants, but they can still be a nuisance. They get their name from their worker ants, which have noticeably large heads in proportion to their bodies. These ants typically build nests in sandy soil near lawns, sidewalks, and driveways. Unlike fire ants, they don’t pose a stinging threat, but they can weaken soil structure over time.
👉 Best treatment: Baits with borax work well for big-headed ants. Also, sealing cracks and gaps around your home can prevent them from moving indoors.
Harvester Ants
Photo Source -> Cales Arizona
🌿 Reddish-brown, clear vegetation around mounds, painful stings
Harvester ants are frequently found in rural and open areas. They’re easy to identify because they clear vegetation in a circular pattern around their mounds, creating a barren, crater-like appearance. While not as aggressive as fire ants, harvester ants deliver painful stings, and their populations can quickly expand.
👉 Best treatment: Bait applications work best, but physical removal by digging out colonies at midday (when most ants are inside) can be effective.
Argentine Ants
Photo Source -> Mississippi State University
🐜 Small, brown, travel in large numbers, less noticeable mounds
Unlike fire ants and harvester ants, Argentine ants don’t always build obvious mounds. Instead, they create shallow nests in moist, shaded areas near homes, foundations, and plant beds. They don’t sting, but they can quickly invade homes in search of food. If you notice long trails of tiny brown ants near your foundation or sidewalks, they may be Argentine ants.
👉 Best treatment: Barrier treatments and sealing entry points around your home are the most effective way to keep them out.
How to Tell If You Have Fire Ants (The Stick Test)
Not sure if you’re dealing with fire ants? Here’s a simple test:
Grab a long stick (not your hand, trust me!).
Lightly poke the mound and observe the reaction.
If thousands of ants swarm out within seconds, aggressively attacking the stick then congratulations, you’ve got fire ants!
Fire ants react much faster and more aggressively than other species. If you have fire ants in your yard, eliminating them should be your top priority to avoid painful stings and potential allergic reactions.
Do Ant Hills Damage Your Yard or Home?
Besides being an eyesore, ant hills can cause serious problems for your lawn, soil, and even your home’s foundation. Here’s what you need to watch for:
Soil Erosion
Ants constantly excavate soil, pushing it up into mounds. Over time, this can cause uneven ground and disrupt soil drainage, leading to water pooling in your yard.
Foundation Risks
Certain ants, like big-headed ants, burrow near driveways, patios, and house foundations. Over time, their tunneling loosens the soil, potentially leading to shifts in concrete slabs and pavers.
Lawn Damage
Harvester ants and fire ants can kill grass and vegetation around their mounds, creating bald spots in your lawn.
Health Risks
Fire ants pose the biggest health threat, delivering painful, venomous stings.
Harvester ants also have painful stings, though they are less aggressive.
Argentine and big-headed ants don’t sting, but their presence can signal deeper pest issues.
If ant hills are left unchecked, they can multiply quickly and spread across your yard. That’s why it’s necessary to take action as soon as you notice them.
Step-by-Step Guide to Eliminating Ant Hills in Florida
Now that you know what kind of ants you’re dealing with, it’s time to take action. The key to permanent ant control isn’t just getting rid of visible mounds, it’s eliminating the colony at its source. Simply knocking over an ant hill won’t solve the problem. In fact, doing so can cause the ants to relocate and rebuild nearby, making the infestation worse.
Below are the most effective methods for eliminating ant hills, whether you’re dealing with a small problem or a full-blown invasion.
Method 1 - Boiling Water (Best for Small Infestations)
If you’re dealing with a few isolated mounds, one of the simplest and most cost-effective methods is boiling water.
How to Use Boiling Water on Ant Hills:
Boil 2-3 gallons of water.
Pour the water directly into the mound’s center.
Repeat the process for several days if ants persist.
Limitations & Risks:
⚠️ This method only works on shallow nests—if the colony is deep, ants may survive.
⚠️ Scalding hazard—handle boiling water with extreme care.
⚠️ Can damage surrounding grass if not poured precisely into the mound.
Best for: Small, newly formed mounds.
Not ideal for: Large, well-established colonies.
Method 2 - Using Bait to Kill the Queen (Best for Large Colonies)
If you’re dealing with multiple mounds or a large infestation, baiting is the most effective way to wipe out the entire colony.
How to Apply Ant Bait Correctly:
✔️ Choose the right bait: Fire ants respond well to products like Advion, Amdro, or Orthene.
✔️ Place bait around the mound, NOT directly on top. (If you disturb the mound, ants may relocate.)
✔️ Apply bait when ants are actively foraging (typically morning or late afternoon).
✔️ Be patient—baiting can take a few days to a week to fully eliminate a colony.
Mistakes to Avoid:
🚫 Applying bait when rain is expected—moisture can ruin bait effectiveness.
🚫 Disturbing the mound before treatment—it makes ants scatter.
🚫 Using insecticide and bait at the same time—ants will avoid poisoned bait if they sense danger.
Best for: Large, deep colonies and persistent infestations.
Not ideal for: Homeowners looking for an instant kill method.
Method 3 - Chemical & Organic Treatments
If you need a more aggressive approach, insecticides offer fast-acting results, while organic methods provide a pet- and eco-friendly alternative.
Option 1: Commercial Insecticides (For Fast Results)
For those dealing with severe infestations, professional-grade insecticides can eliminate colonies quickly. The best products include:
BioAdvanced Fire Ant Killer – Kills fire ants on contact.
Bifen IT – A long-lasting, broad-spectrum insecticide.
Taurus SC (Fipronil-based) – A non-repellent, slow-acting insecticide that spreads within the colony.
✔️ Apply insecticide according to manufacturer instructions.
✔️ Some insecticides require watering in to activate.
🚫 Avoid using chemical treatments near edible plants or areas frequented by pets.
Option 2: Organic, Non-Toxic Alternatives
If you have kids or pets, or simply prefer a more environmentally friendly approach, here are a few effective organic solutions:
🌱 Diatomaceous Earth – A natural powder that dehydrates and kills ants upon contact.
Sprinkle around the mound and in high-traffic ant areas.
Safe for pets and humans, but deadly to ants.
🍋 Vinegar & Dish Soap Spray – A DIY solution that disrupts ant trails and kills ants on contact.
Mix equal parts vinegar and water, then add a few drops of dish soap.
Spray directly onto ants and their trails.
🚫 Limitations of Organic Methods:
Diatomaceous earth only works when dry, rain washes it away.
Vinegar and soap don’t kill the colony, only worker ants.
Best for: Households with children, pets, or issues in organic gardening.
Not ideal for: Severe infestations requiring deep colony elimination.
Method 4 - Digging Out the Colony (For Stubborn Hills)
For particularly persistent mounds, sometimes the only option is removing the nest physically.
How to Safely Dig Out an Ant Colony:
Wear protective gloves and boots—fire ants will attack if disturbed.
Dig at midday, when most ants are inside the mound.
Use a shovel to remove as much of the colony as possible.
Drown the removed nest in a bucket of soapy water to ensure complete eradication.
Dispose of the soil far from your home to prevent relocation.
✔️ Works best for visible, above-ground nests.
✔️ Can be combined with baiting or boiling water for better results.
🚫 Not recommended for fire ants, as their colonies extend deep underground.
Preventing Ant Hills from Returning
Eliminating ant hills is only half the battle, if you don’t take preventative measures, you’ll be dealing with new mounds before you know it. Florida’s climate makes it an ideal breeding ground for ants, so it’s critical to disrupt their nesting conditions.
Keep Your Lawn Unattractive to Ants
Ants thrive in dry, loose, and sandy soil, which is why they love Florida’s landscape. The healthier and denser your lawn, the less appealing it becomes to ant colonies.
✅ Water Your Lawn Deeply – Instead of frequent light watering, use deep, infrequent watering to keep the soil moist and compact, making it harder for ants to tunnel. Over-irrigated soil can attract fire ants, so avoid standing water.
✅ Fertilize Regularly – A thick, well-maintained lawn discourages ant activity by reducing available nesting space. Healthy grass roots help stabilize the soil, making it harder for ants to burrow.
✅ Remove Food Sources – Ants are foragers, and they’ll quickly take advantage of pet food, trash, or sugary spills.
👉 Pro Tip: If you’re dealing with persistent fire ants, try using diatomaceous earth around problem areas to create an invisible barrier that kills ants without harming pets or plants.
Seal Entry Points Around Your Home
If ants are building mounds in your yard, it’s only a matter of time before they find a way inside. Many species, like Argentine ants, are notorious for invading homes in search of food and moisture.
✅ Inspect Your Home’s Perimeter – Carefully check for:
Cracks around windows and doors
Gaps in your foundation
Holes around pipes and electrical outlets
✅ Apply Caulk or Sealant – Seal off any potential entry points using silicone-based caulk to prevent ants from sneaking inside. Pay special attention to baseboards, window frames, and areas where utility lines enter the home.
✅ Trim Trees and Shrubs – Ants use overhanging branches as a bridge to enter your home.
Keep trees at least 2-3 feet away from your roofline.
Trim bushes and shrubs that touch exterior walls.
👉 Pro Tip: Spread a barrier of diatomaceous earth or granular insecticide around the foundation of your home to kill ants before they get inside.
Use Ongoing Ant Control
Regular pest control treatments can eliminate hidden colonies before they become a problem.
✅ Granular Treatments – Products like Talstar and TopChoice offer season-long ant control. They’re applied directly to the soil and work by killing foraging ants before they reach your home.
✅ Bait Stations – If you live in an area prone to fire ants, consider setting up outdoor bait stations around your property. This prevents new colonies from forming by continuously eliminating queens and worker ants.
✅ Hire Professionals for Long-Term Monitoring – If you’ve had recurring infestations, a professional ant control service can provide:
Quarterly treatments to prevent reinfestation
Long-term monitoring to catch new colonies early
Customized solutions for your specific yard conditions
At Hoffer Pest Solutions, we’ve been helping Florida homeowners eliminate and prevent ant infestations for over 40 years. Our pest control specialists use targeted treatments and environmentally responsible methods to keep your yard and home ant-free without harming pets, children, or local wildlife. Give us a call now for a consultation!
📞 Call us at (954) 590-0477
🌐 Visit us online at www.hofferpest.com